Ford Valvetrain
I have to make a page so we can see what it takes to open and close valves on Ford Engines correctly, since many so called builders seem to have trouble with this, wich cost the customer way more than a few bucks.
the old saying applies “But I dont have money to do it right” this is why you have Money to do it over a few times…
| How to Select A Valve Spring |
With the many choices of aftermarket cylinder heads, most with “longer-than-stock” length valves, the recommendation of a specific spring for a specific cam is almost impossible. It is now necessary to select the spring that will best fit the cylinder head configuration. We offer the following as guide lines only:1) “Flat-Tappet” cam/lifter applications (Street & Street/Strip) seat pressures?
2) “Flat-Tappet” Open pressures should not exceed 330# open pressure (sustained after spring break-in) for acceptable cam and lifter life.
3) Hydraulic Roller Cams require higher spring seat pressures to control the heavier roller tappets and the more aggressive opening and closing rates available to roller cam profiles.
4) Hydraulic Roller Cams use higher open pressures to control the high vertical opening inertia of the heavier roller followers.
5) Solid Lifter Roller Cam/Lifter Applications are generally used for serious street/strip use and full competition. Most are not used in “daily-drivers” where day-to-day reliability is stressed. Instead, most of these cams are intended for “winning performance.” These cams are designed with “very aggressive” opening and closing rates. High seat pressures are necessary to keep the valves from bouncing when they come back to the seat. In all cases, the valve action and spring pressures required mandate the use of high-strength, one-piece valves.
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Valve Spring Rate and How to Use It
| Valve Spring Rate and How to Use It | |
The rate of a spring is the force necessary to compress (or deflect) the spring a specified distance. For example, if we say that a spring has a rate of 250 lbs. per inch (250#/in.), it will take 250 pounds of force to compress the spring 1 inch. Fortunately, valve springs are coil springs, and coil springs are easy to understand because they have an almost linear spring rate. In other words, if it takes 400 lbs. to compress a spring 1 inch, it only takes 100 lbs. to compress the spring .250 in., 200 lbs. to compress it .500 in., and 300 lbs. to compress it .750 in. Some people refer to spring rate as “stiffness”, and it is the understanding of this spring characteristic that is most important in selecting and setting up springs on an automotive cylinder head.Frequently a taller, softer spring is a better choice for a performance application than a short, stiff spring.
In all-out racing, we frequently see the need for different springs on the same lobe profile depending on the anticipated RPM range. Frequently, circle track racers will run two different tracks with the same engine but with different rear end gearing. Often there can be as much as 500-700 RPM difference in the top end engine speed between the two tracks. It is not uncommon to find that the car runs better on the track with the lower peak RPM using a spring with a lower seat pressure and softer rate. At the track where the engine runs to the higher speed, the engine needs more seat pressure and a “stiffer” spring rate. Every combination of engine, chassis, and track is different. Significant performance improvements can often be achieved by experimenting with valve springs. If you aren’t paying attention to your springs, the guy winning most of the races probably is! |
Installing a camshaft ground by Camshaft Innovations using the “Lift at TDC” method. You will NOT need a degree wheel. A piston stop and a dial indicator is all that you will need.
1.Install the camshaft. Start by aligning the dots.
2.Make sure the crank gear is set to zero.
3.Use your timing chain cover. Just 2 or 3 bolts to hold it in place.
4.Slide your harmonic balancer on.
5.Install your timing pointer. If it is a stock pointer, grind the lower bevel flat.
6.Now you’ll need your piston stop.
7.Using your piston stop, identify where TDC is with YOUR pointer and YOUR balancer.
8.Adjust the pointer accordingly.
9.Remove the piston stop at this time.
10.Install 1 intake lifter and 1 exhaust lifter.
11.Get the dial indicator out and set it up on #1 INTAKE lifter.
12.Turn the engine over in direction of rotation.
13.When the EXHAUST lifter just starts to come up, STOP!
14.Zero the dial indicator out at this time. You are now on the heel or basecircle of the intake lobe.
15.Turn the engine in direction of rotation.
16.When you get to TDC, STOP!
17.You are at TDC when YOUR pointer is directly on the TDC mark on YOUR balancer. (Providing you set TDC properly!)
18.Record the lift that is on the dial indicator.
19.How close is it to the “Lift at TDC” supplied by Camshaft Innovations on your cam card?
20.If you need MORE lift, then ADVANCE the camshaft.
21.If you need LESS lift, then RETARD the camshaft.
22.For every 1* at TDC you are off, that is .0075” (+/-).
23.Remove the balancer and the timing chain cover.
24.Advance or retard the camshaft accordingly.
25.Repeat the above steps as needed.











